Yesterday, I introduced Annie to the Pacific Ocean. She was decidedly unimpressed (and highly resistant to selfies.) But, my baby has seen both the Atlantic and the Pacific. How many kitties can say that?
I am keeping my Bean worldly!
japan
Summer sure is going to be interesting…
Before we arrived in Okinawa, Chuck and I were warned about the excessive humidity on the island and advised to purchase de-humidifers as soon as possible. This was so novel to me, because I have generally dealt with overly dry homes and yearned for a humidifier to save my skin, eyes, hair, and nose from agitation (to include when I lived in the South.) I had never even heard of de-humidifiers! However – at at $230 a pop – these bad boys aren’t cheap, so we put it off and considered taking the time to find a used one. Besides, it’s only spring. How bad could it be?
Pretty bad, as it turns out. With humidity levels consistently in the 90th percentile already, Chuck and I realized we needed to stop procrastinating and bite the bullet. Our bedroom especially started to feel and smell oppressive. The sheets and towels were starting to reek of mildew, and sleeping was uncomfortable because the sheets actually felt a little bit… damp! Gross.
We ventured to the Exchange and purchased a brand new, 70 pint de-humidifier that was supposedly powerful enough to suck the moisture out of the entire apartment. We plugged it in and let it get to work. Right before bed, we emptied it. When Chuck arose at 6:30 AM to head to work, he emptied it. And when I dragged my lazy butt out of bed around 10 AM, I emptied it yet again. This is a machine capable of storing 9 gallons of moisture, and we’ve already emptied it three times in less than a day!! That’s 27 gallons of moisture it has sucked out of our apartment in mere hours…
It’s only going to get worse! This will never do.
My Crazy Cat Lady Adventure
Yesterday, there was a break in the rain. Tiny bits of sunshine peeked out of the clouds, so I decided it was a good day for a bike ride to Uken Beach. I hadn’t yet ridden in that direction, so I was excited to see what I could find. It turns out that it makes for a slightly more intense workout than riding into the town, as the hills are more frequent – but Lord knows I need it, so bring it on 🙂
The top of the hill
As always, the destination was worth it. I perched myself on a rocky outpost and took in the scenery. Of course, that didn’t stop a young-ish Japanese lad from approaching me for a selfie (or an “usie”, rather), which was even more awkward than you’d expect because he spoke no English except for “peace” and “say cheese.” Other than that, the afternoon was quite enjoyable from my little perch, and I experienced no other intrusions to my quiet-time.
But, I had an ulterior motive for venturing to Uken Beach. Along one side of the road that takes me there is a series of Okinawan graves. They are really more like shrines, since some of the locals here engage in ancestor worship. Not only are they attractive architectural specimens, but they are also prime hangouts for my favorite furry friends. In Japan, cats are considered guardians of the dead, and protect against evil spirits. There are many stray cats here, and it’s true that you can find them among the grave sites, where locals respectfully leave food and water to keep them sustained. I spotted many, much to my delight, and even encountered one dodging my camera in between two shrines (is it bad that I snapped a pic of holy ground?)
Unfortunately, my tale does not come without woes. As I was slowly riding along, nodding a silent “konnichiwa” to each kitty I passed, I noticed this little guy, who appeared to be dying up against the cemetery wall. He was clearly mangey and infested with something, and flies swarmed around his crusty eyes and nose. He barely moved, and didn’t even react when I approached close enough to touch (I didn’t.)
At this point, I was fairly distraught. I couldn’t bear the thought of leaving him on the corner to die. But what could I do? I had a healthy cat under official quarantine at home! I made a few phone calls and learned that there aren’t many options for helping a stray, even though I offered multiple alternatives. All I wanted was to take him to a vet where he could get cleaned up and medicated, and I was happy to pay for it.
Since this was apparently not an option, I went for the next best thing – bringing a little joy into what was left of his life. I biked home and packed a tote bag with fresh water, tuna fish, and Frontline. I also brought gloves, just in case I was able to touch him. I hopped into Daisy and drove back down to the graves.
When I showed up to the original spot, my decrepit little friend was no longer there. A few other kitties were, and they had already been fed. I looked across the street and felt immediately encouraged – he was there, up and at ’em, with another group of kitties. I was so happy, because I really thought the old guy was at death’s door when I found him on the sidewalk! I walked over, pulled out the tuna, and was promptly surrounded by feline love.
While they ate the tuna, I examined the Old Guy closer. What I originally thought were mites were actually some sort of plant or thorn or seedling. One ear looked a bit infected, and he had no teeth. Clearly, he was very, very old. It also became evident that he was the dominant cat in the group, as he was occasionally testy with another adult male and seemed protective of the females (one of whom was pregnant by the contesting male.) It was actually quite fascinating to watch… like a pride of lions!
While King Cat drank water, I punctured the Frontline with the wing of my Tinkerbell key chain and squeezed it on the back of his neck. He didn’t flinch! He was so laid back that I decided it was worth trying to pet him. With my gloved hand, I scratched his chin. He leaned into it. I scratched his cheek, and he leaned into that, too. I think he was trying to purr, because his breathing sounded rather labored at this point…
Ultimately, I removed the gloves and scratched King’s head with a little more reassurance. He was loving it, and as he glanced ove
r at the other cats (who knew to keep their distance from him), I could tell he was pleased to monopolize my attention. I packed up and prepared to leave. I walked over to where I had laid the gloves, but he beat me to them, and promptly took a seat. Well then! I lingered awkwardly and asked him if I could have my gloves back, but he simply gazed off into the distance, either with wisdom or disdain – most likely the latter. I left him with the gloves (of course) and as I looked back one more time, I saw that he had curled up on top of them, looking very comfortable and pleased indeed. I like to think they will be a reminder of my visit, and I take it as a sign that he kinda liked me…
All in all, I felt better after my visit with King Cat and his subjects. I still think he is dying, but I am less distraught knowing that he is still mobile, dominant, and nearing the end as part of a natural aging process. I wish I could do more, but I think I will at least visit him every now and again, with extra tuna fish in tow. Besides – I want to see Mama Cat’s kittens when they arrive 🙂
And now… take a look at these two stunners! I might have to catnap these little guys, because they are so stinkin’ cute.
What’s in Our Kitchen: the Okinawa Version
Chuck and I both love to cook, and now that we find ourselves in a completely different culinary environment, we are eager to discover the ways in which we can concoct new recipes and experience new flavors. Of course, we also want to know where to shop for the best ingredients for the flavors we already know and love! For instance, I will never tire of Chuck’s deep dish pizzas 🙂 The Commissary here is sufficient for some things, but it’s small and pretty boring. I will probably only go there for things like cereal, milk, pasta, and some meat. Luckily, the local grocery stores out in Uruma are a real treat! I don’t know what 95% of it is, but the 5% I do know is fantastic, fresh, and relatively local (even if the squishy raw seafood with eyeballs and tentacles on display freaks me out!) Better yet, we found a farmer’s market within walking/biking distance, with all sorts of fresh fruits, veggies, and flowers. It was just a quick trip in the middle of a rain shower, so I didn’t take many photos, but I couldn’t resist snapping a quick pic of the pineapples adorned in pink ribbon below…
We brought home our goodies and whipped up some dinner: seared tuna in a homemade ginger-soy-lemon-garlic sauce served over a bed of fresh greens and accompanied by fresh avocado and tomato. Delicious, and healthy too! 
We also got Japanese eggs, which are very large, brown, and don’t require refrigeration. In fact, the U.S. is one of the only countries in the world that refrigerates its eggs. We also treated ourselves to a delicious item from the dessert section of the Japanese grocery store – the half-eaten chocolate log pictured below. We don’t know what it is exactly, so Chuck calls it “Dragon Poop,” naturally. Appetizing, right? Right.
In conclusion, I was particularly tickled to find out that while most Japanese produce is regional, they still import their oranges from the good ol’ US of A. I guess you just can’t beat Florida citrus! 🙂
Pretty Nails & Kitty Toes
Of course I already paid a visit to Essence, the nail salon that I discovered during my bike excursion around the town of Uruma.
Since I already had my toes did, I decided to give my fingernails a shot (even though I traditionally avoid manicures due to their depressingly short life-span.) I’m curious to see how long I make it before the first chip!
Wanderings in Uruma
Now that Chuck and I are settled into our new apartment, I’ve had some time to explore the town of Uruma. I bought myself a used, Japanese-style bike (with a basket!) and I just love it. It has truly maximized my adventuring potential, as it covers more ground than walking yet gives me the freedom and visibility I would lack if driving a car.
So, even though the weather has been rather blah, I hopped on and turned left outside of our housing gate. I turned again onto the main road and wandered for several blocks, occasionally venturing down side streets that looked particularly intriguing. Of course, I couldn’t read any of the signs or storefronts, but I still managed to find multiple restaurants, bars, grocery stores, bakeries, spas, and even a florist. It’s certainly a quieter, more residential area of Okinawa, but it clearly has a lot to offer. And, despite the typical gray, concrete architecture, there are oases of beauty everywhere you look…
Excited about all the new places to try (most especially the food), I finally turned around and biked the river walk, where I couldn’t resist snapping photos of the pretty flowers. Even on a gray day, the colors just POP. I love all the flora and fauna around here.
Of course, what’s exploring an island without a beach within easy reach? Uruma has that covered, too! If you turn right out the housing gate, you get a completely different experience: the most lovely specimens of Pacific blue. To date, the majority of the beaches we have visited are on the East China Sea, but our very own Courtney and Uken Beaches are on the Pacific side of the island and are very beautiful indeed!
The beach route is significantly less urban, and a fun change of scenery from the more built-up side of Uruma. There are fewer restaurants, shops, and cars, but more fields, unpaved paths, ornate family cemeteries, and… THIS:
…Yep, that’s a bull. Walking the streets of Uruma. Can we be friends? 🙂
Introducing Daisy, My Plucky Okinawa Car
If there was one thing I knew for sure that I wanted here in Okinawa, it was a pink car. I mean – where else in the world could I possibly get away with that? They’re just too cute for words! However, despite the fact that you see these cars in various shades of pink absolutely everywhere, they are incredibly difficult to find at the “approved” used dealerships. I was patient for a while – visiting and re-visiting the dealerships, perusing Okinawa yard sale pages and Bookoo – but alas, I was running out of time to be picky about something as inane as color. I really just needed some wheels so I could get around on my own, after all…
In a last ditch effort, I posted my very specific request on an Okinawa Facebook page, which prompted a number of false leads on cars that were either more red than pink, more purple than pink, or more gray than pink. Finally, one last lady made her winning comment: “I think I may have what you are looking for ;-)”.
We exchanged a series of messages, arranged a time to meet, and before I knew it, I was the new owner of a 2001 Honda Fit, in a beautiful shade of hyacinth pink! I promptly named her “Daisy,” because, well, it just suits her so damn well. (I realize daisies are white, but “Rose” was far too elegant for a girl-next-door cutie like her.) Anyway, Daisy is far from perfect – she has a few bumps and bruises, has 144,000 kilometers on her, and sometimes she makes cute, sputtery little noises – but I can tell she has a heart of gold and will get me where I need to go in charming, Okinawan style.
No car can replace my original, beloved Scarlett, but I am so pleased to live my island life with Daisy for the next three years!
Wait… what?
Every now and again, I see something that makes me stop and ponder the implications of the unexpected. Case in point, the sign below…
…WELP. Didn’t realize I was in a tsunami hazard zone to begin with. Thanks for the warning, guys! I think I’ll stick on this side of town for now…
Journey to Hiji Falls
Nestled in the more sparsely populated Yambaru area of Okinawa Honto is the beautiful 26-meter Hiji Waterfall. Chuck and I woke up bright and early on Sunday morning and drove 1.5 hours north to make the hike. The approximately 2-mile trail incorporates steep climbs, wobbly suspension bridges, and sharp turns, and my calves are truly feeling it today, but who can complain when your ultimate destination is this stunning display of nature?
…Seriously. I felt like I was magically transported into South Pacific the musical, frolicking in Bali Ha’i with Cable and Liat. Such a lovely place to spend a lovely morning, and I am glad we did it before the extreme heat of summer arrives.
After working up a bit of a sweat, we made our way back to the car and drove a few minutes in the opposite direction to visit Okuma Beach. Any time I Google “Okinawa beaches”, Okuma is the one that truly dazzles me. Since we were in the area, we had to pay it a visit, even if it was a bit cloudy and chilly. It is a Japanese resort area in part, but we were surprised to see that the U.S. Air Force actually has command of a large chunk of it, as a “recreation facility.” Chuck and I are both not sure how we feel about the military spending money to run the place, and honestly, I had hoped for a more unadulterated, local beach, but none of this changed the fact that Okuma is absolutely beautiful and I will most certainly go again when the weather warms up. Even with the clouds and wind, it was just perfect – and the sun managed to peek out once or twice!
Anything is possible with sunshine and a little pink: Introducing Lilly, in Japan
I was first exposed to Lilly Pulitzer designs in college. At the time, I disliked the brand – I associated it with the seemingly cult-ish
sorority life on campus, of which I was decidedly not a part. Not that I had (or have) anything against it. I went to a few open houses, and looking back, I think I probably would have enjoyed it. But after 4 years at the all-girls’ prep school that inspired the movie Mean Girls, I just couldn’t get fully on board.
Then, I moved to the charming beaches of the southern corner of North Carolina. I found myself meandering into a signature Lilly Pulitzer boutique called “Palm Garden” one lazy summer afternoon, and truth be told – I was hooked. The bright colors and playful designs sucked me in, and I couldn’t escape the pure happiness of its message and the sunny charm of its origin. Before I knew it, I was trying on one of the signature shift dresses, and was delighted by how well they fit me. The only downside was the price… but let’s not talk about that. 😛
When I learned we were moving to Japan, I figured my Lilly wear was the one brand that would seamlessly transfer into the cutesy, colorful, tropical culture of Okinawa. Of course, most of it is still packed away, so I have yet to rock my Lilly dresses, shorts, and tops, but I did walk into yesterday’s nail salon with my latest (and most useful) accessory, the Charlotte Wristlet and Phone Case.
Now, the ladies in Cocok spoke minimal English, but before long, they were all squealing over my happy little wristlet and exclaiming “Lee-lee-PULL-itzer” to each other across the salon. Through a combination of facial expressions, a few basic English words, and hand gestures, I managed to explain that it is only sold in America at this time, but they have a website! It wasn’t until I left – after I wrote down the URL for them to pass around – that I remembered Lilly doesn’t ship internationally. D’oh!!!
As for me, I am keeping my fingers crossed that APO addresses are an exception, and I can still get my Lilly fix. If they are, maybe I should mass order and open a little franchise here in Oki. I had a feeling it would fit right in!
Wildflowers & Whimsy 