Memorial Day Adventuring: Fukushuen Gardens & Katsuren Castle

Not everything about this past weekend was depressing. During the “up” times, Chuck and I ventured out twice to explore some local Okinawan attractions. The first was Fukushuen Gardens in Naha, which is actually a Chinese-style garden established to honor the relationship between China and the Ryukyu Islands (of which Okinawa is a part.) The relationship goes back over 600 years, and as I have noted in previous posts, there is quite a bit of Chinese influence here. ImageThe gardens were lovely and expansive, even if the water was rather sickly green. I particularly enjoyed the large waterfall, the numerous turtles and fish, and the gazebo-like structures scattered about for relaxation and shade. Of course, there could always be more flowers! I told Chuck that when we are older and richer we can have a garden like that… so long as we get a professional landscaper to do all the work, since I have a brown thumb! 🙂

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The second trip took us to nearby Katsuren Castle, which is only 25 minutes from where we live. In fact, we could see our Tower from the top of the Castle! Now, when I say castle, I actually mean ruins. There isn’t much to the place, but it makes for a fun excursion nonetheless. It dates back to the 15th-century, when a lord named Amawari reveled in its golden era. It is perched on a magnificent hill with a simply stunning view of the ocean and the village below.

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Side note: it’s really interesting to see how the Japanese manage their tourist attractions. There were quite a few occasions where I thought to myself, “This would NEVER fly in the U.S.!” Case in point, the fact that there is no railing on the top of the castle (note the lower left corner photo of me standing on the ledge in the above collage.) There were a number of high-risk areas in the Fukushuen Gardens, as well – gaps in walkways over water, slippery stones, etc. Not that I mind. I actually really like that there is no added hindrance to the beauty of the sites. But in my American mind, I could only think of the lawsuits that could come out of places like these. The accidents! The children! Oy vey.

Anyway, here are some more shots of Katsuren Castle and its surroundings. I kinda want to go back for a romantic late-night picnic someday. It was completely unsupervised 😉

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the Rose Garden Tea Room

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While browsing recommended restaurants on the America-focused website Okinawa Hai, I stumbled across a little spot in Uruma called the Rose Garden Tea Room. Decorated with flowers, dolls, and sculptures, it looked like one of those garden-like establishments that would only be suitable for a girls’ lunch. I needed a way to get to know some of the girls I’ve met in the Tower better anyway, so I rallied a few who I knew weren’t currently working and planned a visit.

It was…interesting. Kinda pretty, but mildly creepy, especially considering it was dead silent when we walked in, overwhelming in terms of sights, smell, and temperature, and off-putting when a rather disgruntled and shaggy looking employee eventually did emerge from some unseen back room to clumsily hand us a menu. I don’t think he cracked a smile the entire time.

The food was good but not great (it seemed unsure of if it wanted to be Japanese or American), but the tea and coffee were fun and the place itself was memorable, if nothing else. I’m glad I went, but I probably wouldn’t go again!

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My Accidental Japanese Dessert

On Friday, before Chuck left on his work trip, I made a reservation at a cute little restaurant on a quiet, picturesque street that I found on one of my wanderings. I perused the drinks section of the menu and determined to try something different and local. I spotted
“milk zenzai” and suddenly realized I had been craving bubble tea. I speculated that perhaps the milk zenzai would be similar to the milk tapioca tea that I so loved at the Asian restaurants back home, and ordered a glass with my meal.

When my dinner came without the milk zenzai, I tried to ask our waitress about it. Of course, my lack of Japanese language skills made this extraordinarily difficult, and while she understood that I was asking about milk zenzai, neither of us could communicate my specific issue. I only ended up confusing her and embarrassing myself by the time I gestured “never mind” and demonstrated happy satisfaction with my glass of water.

Moments after we finished our meal, the waitress brought me this:

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“Milk zenzai!” she chirped. Chuck and I looked at each other and grinned. Of course milk zenzai isn’t a beverage – it’s a dessert! I must have confused the sections on the menu (no real surprise there.) Feeling foolish, we gave it a try. It did have the sweet tea flavor, and there were tapioca balls submerged in the milky liquid, so I like to think I wasn’t too far off. However, I was mystified by the presence of kidney beans in a dessert. The pastry-like piece in the middle of the bowl was a sort of baked bean-puff as well, that made for a most unique flavor. I enjoyed the sweet milk, but jury is still out on the bean-pastry. It was yummy and different to be sure, but I mean – it’s no chocolate lava cake 🙂 Chuck, on the other hand, thought every bit of it was delightful.

I’m really glad I made the mistake, because I tried something new that I otherwise may not have gone for, had I known what it was. Here are some pictures of the rest of the meal… just because 🙂

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Summer sure is going to be interesting…

ImageBefore we arrived in Okinawa, Chuck and I were warned about the excessive humidity on the island and advised to purchase de-humidifers as soon as possible. This was so novel to me, because I have generally dealt with overly dry homes and yearned for a humidifier to save my skin, eyes, hair, and nose from agitation (to include when I lived in the South.) I had never even heard of de-humidifiers! However – at at $230 a pop – these bad boys aren’t cheap, so we put it off and considered taking the time to find a used one. Besides, it’s only spring. How bad could it be?

Pretty bad, as it turns out. With humidity levels consistently in the 90th percentile already, Chuck and I realized we needed to stop procrastinating and bite the bullet. Our bedroom especially started to feel and smell oppressive. The sheets and towels were starting to reek of mildew, and sleeping was uncomfortable because the sheets actually felt a little bit… damp! Gross.

We ventured to the Exchange and purchased a brand new, 70 pint de-humidifier that was supposedly powerful enough to suck the moisture out of the entire apartment. We plugged it in and let it get to work. Right before bed, we emptied it. When Chuck arose at 6:30 AM to head to work, he emptied it. And when I dragged my lazy butt out of bed around 10 AM, I emptied it yet again. This is a machine capable of storing 9 gallons of moisture, and we’ve already emptied it three times in less than a day!! That’s 27 gallons of moisture it has sucked out of our apartment in mere hours…

It’s only going to get worse! This will never do.

My Crazy Cat Lady Adventure

Yesterday, there was a break in the rain. Tiny bits of sunshine peeked out of the clouds, so I decided it was a good day for a bike ride to Uken Beach. I hadn’t yet ridden in that direction, so I was excited to see what I could find. It turns out that it makes for a slightly more intense workout than riding into the town, as the hills are more frequent – but Lord knows I need it, so bring it on  🙂

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The top of the hill

As always, the destination was worth it. I perched myself on a rocky outpost and took in the scenery. Of course, that didn’t stop a young-ish Japanese lad from approaching me for a selfie (or an “usie”, rather), which was even more awkward than you’d expect because he spoke no English except for “peace” and “say cheese.” Other than that, the afternoon was quite enjoyable from my little perch, and I experienced no other intrusions to my quiet-time.

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 But, I had an ulterior motive for venturing to Uken Beach. Along one side of the road that takes me there is a series of Okinawan graves. They are really more like shrines, since some of the locals here engage in ancestor worship. Not only are they attractive architectural specimens, but they are also prime hangouts for my favorite furry friends. In Japan, cats are considered guardians of the dead, and protect against evil spirits. There are many stray cats here, and it’s true that you can find them among the grave sites, where locals respectfully leave food and water to keep them sustained. I spotted many, much to my delight, and even encountered one dodging my camera in between two shrines (is it bad that I snapped a pic of holy ground?)

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 Unfortunately, my tale does not come without woes. As I was slowly riding along, nodding a silent “konnichiwa” to each kitty I passed, I noticed this little guy, who appeared to be dying up against the cemetery wall. He was clearly mangey and infested with something, and flies swarmed around his crusty eyes and nose. He barely moved, and didn’t even react when I approached close enough to touch (I didn’t.)

photo1 (11)At this point, I was fairly distraught. I couldn’t bear the thought of leaving him on the corner to die. But what could I do? I had a healthy cat under official quarantine at home! I made a few phone calls and learned that there aren’t many options for helping a stray, even though I offered multiple alternatives. All I wanted was to take him to a vet where he could get cleaned up and medicated, and I was happy to pay for it.

Since this was apparently not an option, I went for the next best thing – bringing a little joy into what was left of his life. I biked home and packed a tote bag with fresh water, tuna fish, and Frontline. I also brought gloves, just in case I was able to touch him. I hopped into Daisy and drove back down to the graves.

When I showed up to the original spot, my decrepit little friend was no longer there. A few other kitties were, and they had already been fed. I looked across the street and felt immediately encouraged – he was there, up and at ’em, with another group of kitties. I was so happy, because I really thought the old guy was at death’s door when I found him on the sidewalk! I walked over, pulled out the tuna, and was promptly surrounded by feline love.

photo1 (12)While they ate the tuna, I examined the Old Guy closer. What I originally thought were mites were actually some sort of plant or thorn or seedling. One ear looked a bit infected, and he had no teeth. Clearly, he was very, very old. It also became evident that he was the dominant cat in the group, as he was occasionally testy with another adult male and seemed protective of the females (one of whom was pregnant by the contesting male.) It was actually quite fascinating to watch… like a pride of lions!

While King Cat drank water, I punctured the Frontline with the wing of my Tinkerbell key chain and squeezed it on the back of his neck. He didn’t flinch! He was so laid back that I decided it was worth trying to pet him.  With my gloved hand, I scratched his chin. He leaned into it. I scratched his cheek, and he leaned into that, too. I think he was trying to purr, because his breathing sounded rather labored at this point…

Ultimately, I removed the gloves and scratched King’s head with a little more reassurance. He was loving it, and as he glanced ovephoto4 (6)r at the other cats (who knew to keep their distance from him), I could tell he was pleased to monopolize my attention.  I packed up and prepared to leave. I walked over to where I had laid the gloves, but he beat me to them, and promptly took a seat. Well then! I lingered awkwardly and asked him if I could have my gloves back, but he simply gazed off into the distance, either with wisdom or disdain – most likely the latter. I left him with the gloves (of course) and as I looked back one more time, I saw that he had curled up on top of them, looking very comfortable and pleased indeed. I like to think they will be a reminder of my visit, and I take it as a sign that he kinda liked me…

All in all, I felt better after my visit with King Cat and his subjects. I still think he is dying, but I am less distraught knowing that he is still mobile, dominant, and nearing the end as part of a natural aging process. I wish I could do more, but I think I will at least visit him every now and again, with extra tuna fish in tow. Besides – I want to see Mama Cat’s kittens when they arrive 🙂

And now… take a look at these two stunners! I might have to catnap these little guys, because they are so stinkin’ cute.

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What’s in Our Kitchen: the Okinawa Version

Chuck and I both love to cook, and now that we find ourselves in a completely different culinary environment, we are eager to discover the ways in which we can concoct new recipes and experience new flavors. Of course, we also want to know where to shop for the best ingredients for the flavors we already know and love! For instance, I will never tire of Chuck’s deep dish pizzas 🙂 The Commissary here is sufficient for some things, but it’s small and pretty boring. I will probably only go there for things like cereal, milk, pasta, and some meat. Luckily, the local grocery stores out in Uruma are a real treat! I don’t know what 95% of it is, but the 5% I do know is fantastic, fresh, and relatively local (even if the squishy raw seafood with eyeballs and tentacles on display freaks me out!) Better yet, we found a farmer’s market within walking/biking distance, with all sorts of fresh fruits, veggies, and flowers. It was just a quick trip in the middle of a rain shower, so I didn’t take many photos, but I couldn’t resist snapping a quick pic of the pineapples adorned in pink ribbon below…

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We brought home our goodies and whipped up some dinner: seared tuna in a homemade ginger-soy-lemon-garlic sauce served over a bed of fresh greens and accompanied by fresh avocado and tomato. Delicious, and healthy too! photo2 (9) We also got Japanese eggs, which are very large, brown, and don’t require refrigeration. In fact, the U.S. is one of the only countries in the world that refrigerates its eggs. We also treated ourselves to a delicious item from the dessert section of the Japanese grocery store – the half-eaten chocolate log pictured below. We don’t know what it is exactly, so Chuck calls it “Dragon Poop,” naturally. Appetizing, right? Right.

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In conclusion, I was particularly tickled to find out that while most Japanese produce is regional, they still import their oranges from the good ol’ US of A. I guess you just can’t beat Florida citrus! 🙂

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Pretty Nails & Kitty Toes

Pretty Nails & Kitty Toes

Of course I already paid a visit to Essence, the nail salon that I discovered during my bike excursion around the town of Uruma.

Since I already had my toes did, I decided to give my fingernails a shot (even though I traditionally avoid manicures due to their depressingly short life-span.) I’m curious to see how long I make it before the first chip!

Wanderings in Uruma

Now that Chuck and I are settled into our new apartment, I’ve had some time to explore the town of Uruma. I bought myself a used, Japanese-style bike (with a basket!) and I just love it. It has truly maximized my adventuring potential, as it covers more ground than walking yet gives me the freedom and visibility I would lack if driving a car.

So, even though the weather has been rather blah, I hopped on and turned left outside of our housing gate. I turned again onto the main road and wandered for several blocks, occasionally venturing down side streets that looked particularly intriguing. Of course, I couldn’t read any of the signs or storefronts, but I still managed to find multiple restaurants, bars, grocery stores, bakeries, spas, and even a florist. It’s certainly a quieter, more residential area of Okinawa, but it clearly has a lot to offer. And, despite the typical gray, concrete architecture, there are oases of beauty everywhere you look…

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Excited about all the new places to try (most especially the food), I finally turned around and biked the river walk, where I couldn’t resist snapping photos of the pretty flowers. Even on a gray day, the colors just POP. I love all the flora and fauna around here.

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Of course, what’s exploring an island without a beach within easy reach? Uruma has that covered, too! If you turn right out the housing gate, you get a completely different experience: the most lovely specimens of Pacific blue. To date, the majority of the beaches we have visited are on the East China Sea, but our very own Courtney and Uken Beaches are on the Pacific side of the island and are very beautiful indeed!

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The beach route is significantly less urban, and a fun change of scenery from the more built-up side of Uruma. There are fewer restaurants, shops, and cars, but more fields, unpaved paths, ornate family cemeteries, and… THIS:

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…Yep, that’s a bull. Walking the streets of Uruma. Can we be friends? 🙂